Photo-reportage: Communist eateries and food stores across Romania

While the previous photo-reportage brought back eating venues and markets of the early 20th century, the current one is looking at food in the late stages of communism. It is not my purpose the present an exhaustive analysis of communism in Romania; I will solely try to capture bits and pieces specifically related to food practices. I would ask the esteemed reader to keep in mind that this is a punctual account, that presents only one facet of communism. At the same time, it important to mention that, while Romanian communism spreads for about 30 years- formally, at least- not the entire period was the same. Read More

Food, pleasures, markets and eating venues in Bucharest and beyond, early 20th century. A photo reportage.

Somewhat paradoxically, we tend to believe the emergence of the supermarket, a place that stores all or most of our necessities, has improved our lives. Rest assured, the people in the pictures below were eating much better than most of us today. There is magic in knowing the guy who grows the food that ends up on your table, that raises the pork that becomes your steak and the picks up the juicy fruit you enjoy. Without idealizing too much, life was hard then for the majority of people, working the land is never easy. We might have traded that, but what have we gained instead? The same applies to eating out, we now do it almost as a prerequisite, some of us even as a compulsion. We don’t care that much about the space where eating and conviviality (should) take place, sometimes we don’t even care about the food itself. Let’s step back and also look back. In awe.

Most of the photographs in this article have been taken by the German- Romanian photographer Willi Pragher (1908- 1992) in Bucharest. Others have unknown authors or undetermined years of reference. Read More

Oven baked cheesy layered Romanian Polenta (and some humble remarks on Romanian cuisine)

People sometimes ask me about Romanian cuisine and, I confess, it’s not always easy to answer this question. Firstly, as a Romanian myself, I have a totally biased and very personal view on our cuisine; I relate most to my family cooking and to our regional, local food. In my region, we prefer strong flavors, food that packs a punch and feels like a taste explosion in your mouth. We amp the volume on the garlic, our sour broths are really sour, we’re not afraid of salt and pepper, we don’t shy away from the hot chilies, we like fatty, heavy meats. We the cure the meat and we smoke it; we eat it with the best pickles in brine. We add a hearty spoon of heavy sour-cream on top of most dishes (yes, Russian influences cross the borders), we pile up fresh parsley and dill atop the sour-cream. We embrace food that speaks to the soul and silences the hunger. I was lucky enough to have a food-loving grandma that came from a another region, with an entirely different style of cooking and ingredients choice. She liked mixing meats and fruits and making stews that combined sweet and savory flavors. My family lives rather close to the Transilvanian border, so after one hour drive, we can enjoy all the good Hungarian gulashes, dumplings and the works. It’s difficult to nail the entire Romanian cuisine in one paragraph: Romania is big, extremely diverse and, sometimes, peculiar as to what we throw in the cooking pot.

However, there are some common elements, no matter where. Romanian cuisine is simple, heavy, unpretentious, unsophisticated, abounding in all things deemed uncool or unhealthy by modern food trends. Our cuisine has been heavily influenced by all the waves of people that crossed our borders along the centuries. We have strong Turkish influences (koftas & co.), Greek (hello moussaka), Austrian (snitzel all the way) and even French influences from the turn of the century, when everything French was so fashionable. All these with a local spin and local ingredients, that one almost doesn’t recognize the original anymore.
Fundamentally, our cooking and our traditional cuisine is (also) socially driven: historically, we have been poor people, this is reflected in our food, too. We use a variety of herbs and weeds unknown to others (ramps, nettles, sorrel, red orach/ pig weed and so many more), we scout the forests for wild mushrooms, we eat every bit of an animal and, most times, we go for cheap staples. Given the people were poor and the food supply was scarce, we have become masters of preserving. We pickle, we smoke, we cure, we make jams and confitures, we make compots, we preserve everything that can be preserved.
Religion also plays a big part, our heavy orthodox customs impose long fasting periods, so we do have lots of vegetarian and vegan dishes. Of course, no one refers to them this way, we just call it “fasting food” (with a rather disgusted grimace on our faces). Yes, we are a meat loving people and pork reigns supreme!
All this being said, there one thing that all Romanians love: from north to south, from east to west, this is something so utterly Romanian! For lack of a better word, I’ll just call it Romanian Polenta (mamaliga), but don’t be fooled, it’s not as fancy as the Italian version. Even though you only need three ingredients to make it (water, salt and coarse cornmeal), nailing it is far from being a trifle. As some one who takes pride in making good food, I needed years to learn how to make the Romanian Polenta properly. We eat it in a variety of ways, from substituting bread at meals, to mixing it with cheese and sour-cream or just dumping the mamaliga pieces in a bowl of fatty, warm milk. Here below, I’ll leave you with one of my favorite recipes of Romanian Polenta, all my foreign friends who tried it were instantly in love.

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Pork and plum stew: a childhood memory

pork-with-plums

Autumn means lots of mouth-watering stews, slowly cooked in the oven and a kitchen that smells divine. Here’s an adaptation from my childhood, a delicious plum and pork stew made by my grandma. My grandma came from a different part of the country, where fruit and meat mixed happily, where sweet and savory embraced each other and where it is very common to add fruit to lots of dishes. And boy, how well she did it! Both my dad and I are fans, my mom and grandpa (as far as I can remember) not so much. Well, their loss, don’t let it be yours, too. Read More

Romanian dumpling chicken soup

chicken-soup

With the weather is chilling and turning colder each day, I feel I’m regaining my energy and my joie de vivre. I love cold weather food much more that any fancy summer salad, so I just can’t wait to get home from work and start cooking. Cold weather is a time for soups, slow-cooked stews, root veggies, preserves & pickles, pies and crumbles. Researching new recipes is sometimes the most fun a girl can have (or is it only this girl?), but I confess, I usually fall back on my faithful classics. It was not my idea to share this recipe today, but my man’s. Even though I argued anyone knows how to make chicken soup, he scolded me and said this is something for people to see and try. My dumpling chicken soup is apparently too good not to give it a shot. So please do 🙂 Read More

Romanian Potato food: Good food for bad days

Romanian potato stew

This is an old friend, a childhood love and a steady companion since forever. Very creatively named “potato food”, it celebrates the beauty of the potato and it’s everything you can hope for. All Romanians eat and love the potato food, it really is one of the most prominent dishes in our culture. Yes, it’s humble, it’s sometimes called “food of the poor”, it’s served in workers’ cantines, it’s basic, it’s the antonym of fancy…say what you want, but give it a try and you’ll fall in love! I will be forever grateful for this recipe, it saved me when 20 EUR was my weekly allowance that needed to cover food, beer & smokes. And looking at today’s economy and downward slope we’re on, I thought I’d just put it out there. It’s comforting to know that if you ever find yourself in times of trouble, you can cook something (very) cheap, nourishing and oh!, so delicious. Here goes!

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What did I tell you? Moussaka makes for a great lunch

Moussaka lunch box

After this lunch, my man told me my moussaka is glorious and it’s the best one he ate in his entire life. I thought it was one of the nicest things he ‘s ever told me and I blushed. Funny how after these maaaany years together I still blush and giggle (inside my head, of course, I don’t giggle in real life). For me, it has officially became the most romantic dish 🙂

How I achieved this expression of love? One portion moussaka, lots of real sour-cream (from the Polish shop), topped with fresh chives. One piece of Romanian maturated cheese and a colorful salad. As easy as that!

Romanian Moussaka: my grandma’s recipe

Looking back, I think I started loving moussaka simply because I was fascinated by it’s exotic name. Growing up in small, provincial town in the (almost) middle of nowhere, we didn’t have many fancy or exotic things around. Proving the point, I was about 6 when I ate my first banana: I hated it 🙂

But back to our moussaka. You’ll find a variety of recipes across Eastern Europe and while the Greeks and the Turks are still probably fighting over who created this amazing dish, I’m gonna share with you my grandma recipe. Most likely the best one out there.

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Pork tongue, leeks & black olives stew

limba

Do you remember these? Well, here’s the recipe; this is an article I wrote a while back: luckily, because my awful cold is still here to stay. (Man, how I hate summer colds!!!). Anyway…

First of all, please let me say I KNOW tongue is not an organ…but it does fall nicely into this category, doesn’t it? Tongue is a muscle, so if you like that lean filet, chances are you’ll love tongue, as it is a trillion times better. Most of the times, people eat beef or veal tongue, but pork is also very good. You’ll surely find this delicacy in halal butcheries; the ones around Jeu de Balle have it most of the times. It’s fresh, good and waiting for you to take it home.

Now, how can I describe tongue to someone who’s never had it before? I think the most striking thing about is, without doubt, the texture. It’s soft & creamy and a bit chewy and if you know how to (don’t) trim it properly you’ll be in for a treat. The taste is beefy or porky, but rather delicate.

There are many ways to cook tongue and the one that I’m gonna share with you is my least favorite one (still freaking delicious)…but it’s the only way my man likes it and I hear one needs to sometimes compromise in a relationship. Read More