Armenian lamb and prune meatballs soup: rediscover real food

If you are a long-time reader of The Pickled Spruit., you might remember that “rediscover real food” used to be the blog’s tag line. My approach to writing and to the content I am putting forward has changed quite a bit, yet my desire to rediscover real food has stayed. And this is exactly what I did when I – as by chance- picked up Olia Hercules‘ first book, Mamuska. It is a story of cooking in Ukraine and beyond and I was immediately hooked. I found myself nodding when reading Olia’s advice (use only cucumbers in brine, vinegar cornichons just won’t do) and I was thrilled to find familiar
oliaingredients used in less familiar ways
. Given the somewhat similarity with Romanian cuisine, all thrown together in the cooking pot of Eastern European delights, I felt enough at ease to alter the recipes and adjust as I please. I also felt a strong connection to the people in the book, their traditions and cuisine. Later on, I picked up Kaukasis, Olia’s last book and the flood gates opened. For the past months, I’ve been cooking from the book heavily: qutabs, khachapouri, Ossetian pies, khingal, soups, condiments and preserves. And I don’t think I will stop very soon. For now, I am sharing this lamb meatballs soup from Mamuska, with some slight adaptations, driven by personal taste and- honestly- lack of some ingredients.  Read More

Malloreddus con salsiccia: a taste of Sardegna

The cuisine of Sardinia is wonderfully complex and delightful, a real testament against the modern world’s preconceived ideas about the Mediterranean diet. On this arid, beautifully diverse island, it’s wild boar that reigns and not the creatures of the sea. The mix of influences is what makes Sardinian cooking so incredible. I have neither the knowledge nor profound understanding of this remote, rather enclosed culture to follow this thread properly, yet I do enjoy a more practical approach of this topic. Read More

Penne con asparagi e panna- Pasta with asparagus and cream

The first asparagus I ever ate was wrapped in prosciutto- yes, yes, this was in the US. It did not impress me and, truth be told, I haven’t given it lots of consideration. I started eating asparagus about 10 years ago, when I moved to Belgium. Belgians consider it a noble vegetable and so it is. It is a celebration of spring; from late March till mid-June you can see people with bunches of asparagus everywhere you look…a bit like the French and their baguettes. I’m pretty sure it was not social pressure, but curiosity that made me try the green (I prefer the green), long-line, phallus-like stems. I, obviously, loved it! I never put it in pasta before, I guess it’s the wisdom that comes with age that made me do it today. We picked a beautiful bunch from the farmers market and headed home to make one of the easiest, but most memorable dishes: penne with asparagus in a cream sauce. Read More

Lazy drunken clams

I live in the city of mussels, seriously, it’s not for nothing they came up with the expression “mussels from Brussels”. If you come to visit, you’ll find this prominent dish pretty much everywhere. Every brasserie boasts the best “moules frittes” in town…that’s mussels & fries, by the way. Don’t ask, just go with it. But as much as I love mussels, I do prefer the more subtle clams and their delicate flavor. I rediscovered them at a Portuguese restaurant in a stew of pork, potatoes and clams and since then I’ve been yearning and thinking about cooking them at home. I decided to start with a classic: clams in white wine and garlic, simple and beautiful. This is a dish made to impress and I love that I can end up with something on the fancy side in only 20 minutes- sipping my mandatory glass of wine (cigarette in hand) included. It’s a dish that screams for your best tableware, crystal glasses and white, beautiful linens. Not ashamed to admit, my bourgeois alter-ego does come out once in a while.
Go pay a visit to your fishmonger, chill the wine and relax (by this I mean start cooking). Read More

Southern Indian spicy chickpea and aubergine stew

I learned how to cook Indian food simply because my man loves it and he would, probably, be able to live on it months on end. My fair city of Brussels doesn’t offer many good alternatives; even in my early days of cooking Indian food at home, we always had the feeling that I was doing much better than the restaurants. Little by little, I started embracing it, but not by the way of my taste buds, more by the way of reading and learning about it. I find it fascinating how the food ties into the story of India and how the food itself has been influenced by the religious, political and social changes. I love the rich dishes with lots of yogurt and silky sauces of the north and west and the Mogul cuisine, but I also adore the hot, sharp flavors and spiciness of the south. I like Balti dishes and the blend of different ingredients. The abundance of spices makes me feel great after eating Indian food. This is food that transports you and makes you dream!
I recently read this article about “vegetarian India” which seems to cause quite a debate: if we were to trust it, it seems that about 71% of the population loves their meat. From my European-biased spot, I confess I like both veggie and meat dishes and I don’t really grasp all the deep cultural and social aspects of the debate. I cook and enjoy most variety of Indian dishes, this time we decided to go for a fiery chickpea and aubergine vegetarian stew, from Southern India. It was so flavorful, it combined different textures and tastes, that we couldn’t help for a second serving. We kept the leftovers and had them at dinner the next day as a side next to a simple pork stake on the grill. Sacrilege!, some might say, I simply thought it was pure perfection. Read More

Oven baked cheesy layered Romanian Polenta (and some humble remarks on Romanian cuisine)

People sometimes ask me about Romanian cuisine and, I confess, it’s not always easy to answer this question. Firstly, as a Romanian myself, I have a totally biased and very personal view on our cuisine; I relate most to my family cooking and to our regional, local food. In my region, we prefer strong flavors, food that packs a punch and feels like a taste explosion in your mouth. We amp the volume on the garlic, our sour broths are really sour, we’re not afraid of salt and pepper, we don’t shy away from the hot chilies, we like fatty, heavy meats. We the cure the meat and we smoke it; we eat it with the best pickles in brine. We add a hearty spoon of heavy sour-cream on top of most dishes (yes, Russian influences cross the borders), we pile up fresh parsley and dill atop the sour-cream. We embrace food that speaks to the soul and silences the hunger. I was lucky enough to have a food-loving grandma that came from a another region, with an entirely different style of cooking and ingredients choice. She liked mixing meats and fruits and making stews that combined sweet and savory flavors. My family lives rather close to the Transilvanian border, so after one hour drive, we can enjoy all the good Hungarian gulashes, dumplings and the works. It’s difficult to nail the entire Romanian cuisine in one paragraph: Romania is big, extremely diverse and, sometimes, peculiar as to what we throw in the cooking pot.

However, there are some common elements, no matter where. Romanian cuisine is simple, heavy, unpretentious, unsophisticated, abounding in all things deemed uncool or unhealthy by modern food trends. Our cuisine has been heavily influenced by all the waves of people that crossed our borders along the centuries. We have strong Turkish influences (koftas & co.), Greek (hello moussaka), Austrian (snitzel all the way) and even French influences from the turn of the century, when everything French was so fashionable. All these with a local spin and local ingredients, that one almost doesn’t recognize the original anymore.
Fundamentally, our cooking and our traditional cuisine is (also) socially driven: historically, we have been poor people, this is reflected in our food, too. We use a variety of herbs and weeds unknown to others (ramps, nettles, sorrel, red orach/ pig weed and so many more), we scout the forests for wild mushrooms, we eat every bit of an animal and, most times, we go for cheap staples. Given the people were poor and the food supply was scarce, we have become masters of preserving. We pickle, we smoke, we cure, we make jams and confitures, we make compots, we preserve everything that can be preserved.
Religion also plays a big part, our heavy orthodox customs impose long fasting periods, so we do have lots of vegetarian and vegan dishes. Of course, no one refers to them this way, we just call it “fasting food” (with a rather disgusted grimace on our faces). Yes, we are a meat loving people and pork reigns supreme!
All this being said, there one thing that all Romanians love: from north to south, from east to west, this is something so utterly Romanian! For lack of a better word, I’ll just call it Romanian Polenta (mamaliga), but don’t be fooled, it’s not as fancy as the Italian version. Even though you only need three ingredients to make it (water, salt and coarse cornmeal), nailing it is far from being a trifle. As some one who takes pride in making good food, I needed years to learn how to make the Romanian Polenta properly. We eat it in a variety of ways, from substituting bread at meals, to mixing it with cheese and sour-cream or just dumping the mamaliga pieces in a bowl of fatty, warm milk. Here below, I’ll leave you with one of my favorite recipes of Romanian Polenta, all my foreign friends who tried it were instantly in love.

Read More

(Romanian) Meatballs for lunch, please!

romanian-meatballs

Traditional Romanian meatballs are very different than the Belgian boulettes. If I weren’t so biased, I’d say they are much better, but hey!, I’m not even gonna dare going there. So what are the differences? Firstly, the composition. Romanian meatballs are made out of pork with lots of grated veggies and herbs inside. The Belgian ones are mostly beef, or a combination of pork and beef/ veal, onion and sometimes parsley. Then, there’s the shape. We like smaller, flat meatballs, while the Belgians make them large and round. And finally, there’s the cooking method. Traditionally, we roll the meatballs in flour and then deep fry them (I confess, I do the light version: no flour, simply cooked on the grill). As for the boulettes? They are, most of the times, fried in butter…yes, yes, this sounds delicious!

So, are you curious to know how the Romanian meatballs are made?  Read More

Pork and plum stew: a childhood memory

pork-with-plums

Autumn means lots of mouth-watering stews, slowly cooked in the oven and a kitchen that smells divine. Here’s an adaptation from my childhood, a delicious plum and pork stew made by my grandma. My grandma came from a different part of the country, where fruit and meat mixed happily, where sweet and savory embraced each other and where it is very common to add fruit to lots of dishes. And boy, how well she did it! Both my dad and I are fans, my mom and grandpa (as far as I can remember) not so much. Well, their loss, don’t let it be yours, too. Read More

Hello boys! Oven baked stuffed sea bass

oven-baked-sea-bass

I’ll keep this post as short & easy as it was to cook these two bad boys. Go to your fish monger, buy two sea bass and kindly ask him to clean them for you. Bring them home, wash them and pat them dry. Smear them with olive oil, salt & pepper and paprika. Fill them with whatever your heart desires, in my case: a head of garlic, onion slices, lemon slices and few rosemary springs. Put some baking pepper in a tray and place the fish on a bed of onion (♫ l wanna lay you down on a bed of onioooooon ♫)(sorry for the cheesy Bon Jovi reference, couldn’t help it). And in the oven they go for about 40 minutes; I didn’t even turn them on the other side. And that IS it. I actually managed to eat almost a full one. Nope, I’m not friends with fish. For now 🙂

Meanwhile, in a Brussels kitchen…

duck-confit

I confess: even with all my best efforts to optimize my time, sometimes, there’s just not enough of it. Time, that is! I know we’re all complaining about time, that bastard that has a way of escaping through our fingers. And yet, even when I’m short on time, I refuse to just eat  mediocre food. My “whatever’s in the fridge” needs to be mouth-watering. That’s why I make sure I always have good-quality preserved stuff that’s ready to hop in the pan and become a more-than-delicious meal. This is what you see in this picture, too. A confit de magret de canard (duck breast confit) which comes from a farm in France, via my dear friend, Romain. I feel these products deserve more that just a mention, so I’m planning to do a full article on them. But for now, just scroll down and read about an incredible dinner under 30 minutes on the clock! Read More