Armenian lamb and prune meatballs soup: rediscover real food

If you are a long-time reader of The Pickled Spruit., you might remember that “rediscover real food” used to be the blog’s tag line. My approach to writing and to the content I am putting forward has changed quite a bit, yet my desire to rediscover real food has stayed. And this is exactly what I did when I – as by chance- picked up Olia Hercules‘ first book, Mamuska. It is a story of cooking in Ukraine and beyond and I was immediately hooked. I found myself nodding when reading Olia’s advice (use only cucumbers in brine, vinegar cornichons just won’t do) and I was thrilled to find familiar
oliaingredients used in less familiar ways
. Given the somewhat similarity with Romanian cuisine, all thrown together in the cooking pot of Eastern European delights, I felt enough at ease to alter the recipes and adjust as I please. I also felt a strong connection to the people in the book, their traditions and cuisine. Later on, I picked up Kaukasis, Olia’s last book and the flood gates opened. For the past months, I’ve been cooking from the book heavily: qutabs, khachapouri, Ossetian pies, khingal, soups, condiments and preserves. And I don’t think I will stop very soon. For now, I am sharing this lamb meatballs soup from Mamuska, with some slight adaptations, driven by personal taste and- honestly- lack of some ingredients.  Read More

Malloreddus con salsiccia: a taste of Sardegna

The cuisine of Sardinia is wonderfully complex and delightful, a real testament against the modern world’s preconceived ideas about the Mediterranean diet. On this arid, beautifully diverse island, it’s wild boar that reigns and not the creatures of the sea. The mix of influences is what makes Sardinian cooking so incredible. I have neither the knowledge nor profound understanding of this remote, rather enclosed culture to follow this thread properly, yet I do enjoy a more practical approach of this topic. Read More

The greenest soup: leeks and peas

Confession: I sometimes like to create alternative worlds in my head.

I play detective and follow random people when I walk the dog (she loves it), I sometimes have imaginary conversations with inanimate objects (we all do that, right?) and I confer human traits to various food ingredients. If you’re still here after reading this, I’ll deep dive. For example, garlic is a grumpy grandpa, with a big mustache: he has a heart of gold, lots of good stories and loves to entertain…but you need to get to know him first. Potatoes are construction workers who love beer. Cabbage is a fat lady with a tiny voice, who’s extremely emotional. If you played into the game, you should be wondering what about leeks and peas. Peas are shy demoiselles, who spend lots of time in their boudoir and love silky gowns. And leeks? Well…my inspiration for leeks comes from the French translation: poirot. M. Poirot. M. Hercule Poirot. I love the irony of cooking leeks in Belgium: M. Poirot was, of course, Belgian, even though everyone thought him French. Like all Belgians, he was a grand gourmand and I sometimes wonder if he loved leeks dishes, too. Guys, I live in the city of Magritte, of crazy comic strips and blunt graffiti, so such transgressions are allowed, if not encouraged. But enough madness, back to our green soup. Read More

Penne con asparagi e panna- Pasta with asparagus and cream

The first asparagus I ever ate was wrapped in prosciutto- yes, yes, this was in the US. It did not impress me and, truth be told, I haven’t given it lots of consideration. I started eating asparagus about 10 years ago, when I moved to Belgium. Belgians consider it a noble vegetable and so it is. It is a celebration of spring; from late March till mid-June you can see people with bunches of asparagus everywhere you look…a bit like the French and their baguettes. I’m pretty sure it was not social pressure, but curiosity that made me try the green (I prefer the green), long-line, phallus-like stems. I, obviously, loved it! I never put it in pasta before, I guess it’s the wisdom that comes with age that made me do it today. We picked a beautiful bunch from the farmers market and headed home to make one of the easiest, but most memorable dishes: penne with asparagus in a cream sauce. Read More

Lazy drunken clams

I live in the city of mussels, seriously, it’s not for nothing they came up with the expression “mussels from Brussels”. If you come to visit, you’ll find this prominent dish pretty much everywhere. Every brasserie boasts the best “moules frittes” in town…that’s mussels & fries, by the way. Don’t ask, just go with it. But as much as I love mussels, I do prefer the more subtle clams and their delicate flavor. I rediscovered them at a Portuguese restaurant in a stew of pork, potatoes and clams and since then I’ve been yearning and thinking about cooking them at home. I decided to start with a classic: clams in white wine and garlic, simple and beautiful. This is a dish made to impress and I love that I can end up with something on the fancy side in only 20 minutes- sipping my mandatory glass of wine (cigarette in hand) included. It’s a dish that screams for your best tableware, crystal glasses and white, beautiful linens. Not ashamed to admit, my bourgeois alter-ego does come out once in a while.
Go pay a visit to your fishmonger, chill the wine and relax (by this I mean start cooking). Read More

Southern Indian spicy chickpea and aubergine stew

I learned how to cook Indian food simply because my man loves it and he would, probably, be able to live on it months on end. My fair city of Brussels doesn’t offer many good alternatives; even in my early days of cooking Indian food at home, we always had the feeling that I was doing much better than the restaurants. Little by little, I started embracing it, but not by the way of my taste buds, more by the way of reading and learning about it. I find it fascinating how the food ties into the story of India and how the food itself has been influenced by the religious, political and social changes. I love the rich dishes with lots of yogurt and silky sauces of the north and west and the Mogul cuisine, but I also adore the hot, sharp flavors and spiciness of the south. I like Balti dishes and the blend of different ingredients. The abundance of spices makes me feel great after eating Indian food. This is food that transports you and makes you dream!
I recently read this article about “vegetarian India” which seems to cause quite a debate: if we were to trust it, it seems that about 71% of the population loves their meat. From my European-biased spot, I confess I like both veggie and meat dishes and I don’t really grasp all the deep cultural and social aspects of the debate. I cook and enjoy most variety of Indian dishes, this time we decided to go for a fiery chickpea and aubergine vegetarian stew, from Southern India. It was so flavorful, it combined different textures and tastes, that we couldn’t help for a second serving. We kept the leftovers and had them at dinner the next day as a side next to a simple pork stake on the grill. Sacrilege!, some might say, I simply thought it was pure perfection. Read More

Oven baked cheesy layered Romanian Polenta (and some humble remarks on Romanian cuisine)

People sometimes ask me about Romanian cuisine and, I confess, it’s not always easy to answer this question. Firstly, as a Romanian myself, I have a totally biased and very personal view on our cuisine; I relate most to my family cooking and to our regional, local food. In my region, we prefer strong flavors, food that packs a punch and feels like a taste explosion in your mouth. We amp the volume on the garlic, our sour broths are really sour, we’re not afraid of salt and pepper, we don’t shy away from the hot chilies, we like fatty, heavy meats. We the cure the meat and we smoke it; we eat it with the best pickles in brine. We add a hearty spoon of heavy sour-cream on top of most dishes (yes, Russian influences cross the borders), we pile up fresh parsley and dill atop the sour-cream. We embrace food that speaks to the soul and silences the hunger. I was lucky enough to have a food-loving grandma that came from a another region, with an entirely different style of cooking and ingredients choice. She liked mixing meats and fruits and making stews that combined sweet and savory flavors. My family lives rather close to the Transilvanian border, so after one hour drive, we can enjoy all the good Hungarian gulashes, dumplings and the works. It’s difficult to nail the entire Romanian cuisine in one paragraph: Romania is big, extremely diverse and, sometimes, peculiar as to what we throw in the cooking pot.

However, there are some common elements, no matter where. Romanian cuisine is simple, heavy, unpretentious, unsophisticated, abounding in all things deemed uncool or unhealthy by modern food trends. Our cuisine has been heavily influenced by all the waves of people that crossed our borders along the centuries. We have strong Turkish influences (koftas & co.), Greek (hello moussaka), Austrian (snitzel all the way) and even French influences from the turn of the century, when everything French was so fashionable. All these with a local spin and local ingredients, that one almost doesn’t recognize the original anymore.
Fundamentally, our cooking and our traditional cuisine is (also) socially driven: historically, we have been poor people, this is reflected in our food, too. We use a variety of herbs and weeds unknown to others (ramps, nettles, sorrel, red orach/ pig weed and so many more), we scout the forests for wild mushrooms, we eat every bit of an animal and, most times, we go for cheap staples. Given the people were poor and the food supply was scarce, we have become masters of preserving. We pickle, we smoke, we cure, we make jams and confitures, we make compots, we preserve everything that can be preserved.
Religion also plays a big part, our heavy orthodox customs impose long fasting periods, so we do have lots of vegetarian and vegan dishes. Of course, no one refers to them this way, we just call it “fasting food” (with a rather disgusted grimace on our faces). Yes, we are a meat loving people and pork reigns supreme!
All this being said, there one thing that all Romanians love: from north to south, from east to west, this is something so utterly Romanian! For lack of a better word, I’ll just call it Romanian Polenta (mamaliga), but don’t be fooled, it’s not as fancy as the Italian version. Even though you only need three ingredients to make it (water, salt and coarse cornmeal), nailing it is far from being a trifle. As some one who takes pride in making good food, I needed years to learn how to make the Romanian Polenta properly. We eat it in a variety of ways, from substituting bread at meals, to mixing it with cheese and sour-cream or just dumping the mamaliga pieces in a bowl of fatty, warm milk. Here below, I’ll leave you with one of my favorite recipes of Romanian Polenta, all my foreign friends who tried it were instantly in love.

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If you want the perfect birthday cake…you’ve gotta make it yourself

If you’ve been here a few times, you’ll probably realize that this is the first dessert that appears on the blog. The reason is fairly simple: I almost never eat sugar and I don’t have a sweet tooth. I’m fortunate not to crave the poison and I go weeks on end without it. But my man? Well, it’s a different story! So for my birthday (happy 32!), he asked me to make a birthday cake. Even though my friends advised not to spend so much time in the kitchen on my b-day, I honestly couldn’t think of a happier place to be. I felt overwhelmed with the million cake recipes and, truth be told, most of them make me…well, not looking forward to the final product. That’s how I decided to put together my own cake and the hell with the rest. I had some help from Sanda, I stole the dough recipe from her book, with few adjustments. My conclusion is thus:

* Even if you’re not a sugar babe, give cake a chance, but make it your own
* Use only ingredients that you love (dark chocolate & plums, in my case)
* Don’t be afraid to experiment and alter the recipe Read More

Home-made grissini: giving my grandma a run for her money

 

grissini

My grandma grew up in a rather bourgoise family, with all that entails. She had a private tutor for everything that was must-have skills for a young lady, from good manners to navigating her way in the kitchen with grace. She was a fabulous baker and she loved it! Growing up, I was fascinated by the entire alchimistic process: perched upon a kitchen stool, I was fiercely following her every move. She used to make the most grandiose cakes, cookies, biscuits, pies, crumbles, fruit dumplings that everyone in the family loved and enjoyed. Except me. I never had a sweet tooth, not even as a child. So in a grand gesture of love, once the cake was in the oven, she used to look at me and give me a playful smile. I knew I was saved, it meant it was time to make grissini! How can I describe these to you? She was gravitating more towards French cooking (so much in style when she was growing up) rather than classic Italian, so the consistency of the grissini was rather flaky, layered, buttery, a bit crispy, almost like a classic French dough with more weight and crunchiness. She always kept true to a simple topping: white, feta-like cheese and cumin seeds. Years later I realized it was, of course, Sanda’s classic recipe, with an unexpected twist. She made it look so simple, easy-peasy, that somehow, I always thought making grissini take 15 minutes on the clock. Lured in by this (fake) memory, I embarked on the adventure, but little did I know. Truth be told, I am not a great baker when it come to sweets, but this was different, right? In the end, all turned well and I feel that I, somehow, conquered this milestone, too. So roll up your sleeves, boys and girls, today we’re making grissini! Read More

(Romanian) Meatballs for lunch, please!

romanian-meatballs

Traditional Romanian meatballs are very different than the Belgian boulettes. If I weren’t so biased, I’d say they are much better, but hey!, I’m not even gonna dare going there. So what are the differences? Firstly, the composition. Romanian meatballs are made out of pork with lots of grated veggies and herbs inside. The Belgian ones are mostly beef, or a combination of pork and beef/ veal, onion and sometimes parsley. Then, there’s the shape. We like smaller, flat meatballs, while the Belgians make them large and round. And finally, there’s the cooking method. Traditionally, we roll the meatballs in flour and then deep fry them (I confess, I do the light version: no flour, simply cooked on the grill). As for the boulettes? They are, most of the times, fried in butter…yes, yes, this sounds delicious!

So, are you curious to know how the Romanian meatballs are made?  Read More